Turn Left and Follow the Teepees

 

I found this really cool old Hay Sales & Feed/ Welding Shop by accident, which I love. It’s SO much fun to turn a corner and discover a really crusty old neon sign that you didn’t expect, or a horse on top of a teepee. This place is in Joseph City, Arizona. When you get off I-40 for a run along Old Route 66 in Joseph City, all of the guidebooks tell you to cross the freeway and turn right. But I had glimpsed a teepee from the freeway and turned left in pursuit (I always follow teepees)… Continue reading

La Posada – A Winslow Oasis

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com

At $155/night (inc. taxes and pet fee), the La Posada Hotel was my big indulgence for the first leg of the trip, and it couldn’t have come at a better time. I was feeling sad about Route 66, American poverty, and general neglect as I drove into Winslow,  and I was afraid it would be the same as Two Guns, Twin Arrows, and Meteor City — abandoned, neglected, sad. And much of Winslow is exactly that. BUT…

The most impressive place in town, and the best reason to visit Winslow, is  The La Posada Hotel — billed as the Last Great Railroad Hotel, built in 1929 by the Santa Fe Railway, and a former Harvey House, located right on the railroad tracks. Architect Mary Elizabeth Jane Colter’s southwest masterpiece, it is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. I didn’t realize when I checked in that La Posada means “Resting Place,” and that’s exactly what I did. This beautiful oasis was unexpected and very welcome, and I immediately booked a second night! And I’m so glad I did — it turned out to be the kind of place that feels instantly like home, or like visiting a good friend (with really good taste and a lot of money).

This hotel has to be a train-lovers mecca, but it’s also an art-lovers mecca. It’s the home gallery of funky, eccentric artist (and hotel owner) Tina Mion, whose work is displayed throughout the hotel — make sure you check out the second-floor gallery. I ran into her in the hall one day and enjoyed talking with her, and she gave me some great local photo recommendations — Homolovi State Park and Little Painted Desert, a county park just up the road from Homolovi.

The gardens of the hotel are gorgeous, and I’ve never been to a more pet-friendly hotel! Dogs are welcome in nearly every garden on the property, and there is a huge lawn at the back and on the side that are specifically for dogs, plus a fun hay-bale maze for human children.

You’d think that an active train station would be loud, but they roll by so slowly it just seems relaxing. There’s always a group of folks sitting out back watching the trains go by — and with an average of over 90/day, they never have to wait long. There are still 2 stops per day at La Posada — one from Los Angeles and one from Chicago. I’m thinking that my next trip to La Posada should be via Amtrak!

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Explore…

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’€™t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor…

Explore.

Dream.

Discover.”

— Mark Twain

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com

Hitching up my pony…

…at the Silver Saddle Motel in Santa Fe, NM — an authentic Route 66 experience since 1958! More photos soon. http://santafesilversaddlemotel.com

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Day 5- Winslow to Albuquerque via Exit 303

270 miles; $3.39/gallon gas; pulled into the Sandia Peak Inn in Albuquerque at 10pm.

Great morning saying a leisurely good-by to La Posada, which has quickly become very homey to me. I really think I could live here (in La Posada, not Winslow). When you venture out into the town further than a couple of blocks from downtown, the poverty slaps you in the face. Every time I went out, even to my car in the hotel parking lot, someone asked me for money. This doesn’t even happen in LA, so it was surprising and sad.

First stop of the day was in Holbrook, where I did a quick u-turn when I saw a cute little dog park with GRASS! And a shade tree! A man with a long gray ponytail was playing with his German Shepherd, who loved Colby (OK, who doesn’t?). He was originally from North Carolina and had moved out here to work at the Navajo reservation. I also met Leslie & Matt, a cute couple in their 20’s who were traveling Route 66 east to west, from Champagne, Illinois, so we exchanged notes. That’s one of the great things about traveling with your dog…you meet the nicest people.

Holbrook is home to the famous Wigwam Motel (811 W Hopi Dr, Holbrook, AZ 86025, 928-524-3048). It’s one of only 2 of the original 7 that remains open — the other is on Route 66 in Rialto, California, http://wigwammotel.com. Earlier post about that one — “Sleep in a TeePee”. Both ask the question “Have you slept in a Tee Pee lately?” and try to entice travelers with nostalgic props on the properties. In Holbrook there are great old vintage cars scattered around the place and when you see only one of those cars in front on a teepee, it’s easy to imagine a 1950’s road trip when Route 66 was in its hey-day. I wanted to stay here, but it didn’t work out timing-wise, so I just drove through and then headed on out towards Albuquerque.

Just east of Holbrook, I got distracted for HOURS of photo fun at I-40/Route 66’s Exit 303. The most fun was STEWART’S ROCK SHOP, as already reported, but I can’t imagine a single exit along Route 66 with more nostalgic kitsch, camp, rocks, and quirky, eccentric fun. First up was the PAINTED DESERT INDIAN CENTER, 13 miles east of Holbrook, on the southwest side of Exit 303…

AND THEN THE ROCK FACTORY, just down the road from the Indian Center…

Then some fun with motorcyclists, a cool hippie bus/van/camper, another major photo distraction at Fort Courage (crusty old billboards…more later), a disappointing stop at the run-down/mostly abandoned Continental Divide, a quick run through Gallup, New Mexico to see the famous El Rancho Motel, rain, rainbows, and…rolled into Albuquerque at 10:00pm.  Long day!!!

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Monsoon season is awesome!

Dramatic skies over the Grand Canyon yesterday. More photos and adventures to follow tomorrow. I’m happily ensconced at the gorgeous La Posada Hotel on Route 66 – Currently undergoing some serious restorative hydro-therapy (aka the Jacuzzi tub). Colby is enjoying the tile floor. Good-night, cruisers!

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Day 2- Kingman to Flagstaff via the Really Grand Canyon

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com

285 miles, $4.09/gallon gas, and lovely weather — scattered thundershowers, which were a welcome respite after the heat of the Mojave Desert. 80’s and even 70’s as the elevation increased.

Hardest task of the day: Finding ice for my cooler. I had to go to 3 places! Independence Day weekend is apparently a very popular ice holiday. Well, it is the desert.

After a leisurely morning online yesterday, I scampered to catch up and get to the Grand Canyon by mid-afternoon.  I did a quick drive-through Ash Fork, Arizona, one of the Route 66 towns that time has not been kind to. Touted now as the Flagstone Capitol of the World, there’s a few abandoned Route 66 relics still scattered around, and a lot of very friendly people. Everyone waved when they saw me taking photos from the car (that’s not always the gesture I get when I point my camera). At a local community area, kids were having a blast on a slip-and-slide — I remember how much fun we had on those as a kid (and how much my dad hated them because they killed the grass!). One notable Route 66 exception: The DeSoto on top of a now-closed beauty salon.

I got to Williams around noon and will have to go back there sometime. It’s an adorable town and suitable tribute to Route 66. And cute cowboys…

The drive up Highway 64 to the Grand Canyon is beautiful and easy.  Stopped briefly at the unfortunately-now-defunct Canyon Trading Post, which billed itself as the First Authentic Trading Post, established 1889. This is exactly the kind of kitsch I would have loved to see in its heyday. Love the giant kachinas…

Sunset at the Grand Canyon is something every American should experience in their lifetime. I got to the Grand Canyon about 3:00, more or less as planned, but didn’t count on waiting in line for almost an hour (one-mile back-up) to get into the park. Even the prepaid/pass line wasn’t moving any faster, although that’s what I would recommend for any of the National Parks (the $80/year for all parks pass is a great bargain; the Grand Canyon is $25/vehicle, which is also a bargain; passes at any park or their website).

Like all the other lemmings, I headed to the Visitor Center and Mather Point. I had the circle the parking lots for about 15 mins. to find a spot. Colby LOVED the Grand Canyon! If you want to make new friends fast, travel with a friendly, beautiful dog. I overheard dozens of comments about how gorgeous he is (he is a pretty boy!), and one guy saying “I wish I had a dog to take to cool places”. Mostly, people not traveling with their dogs were missing them, and just needed a friendly pet, which Colby happily obliged. He even met his first real Aussie (reminder: Colby is a purebred Australian Shepherd…and a rescue…you can adopt purebreds)!!! And he met a female Elk, who really couldn’t be bothered.

He behaved so well in such a large group of people (imagine Disneyland, but spread out more), but I must admit it’s a little more difficult to get great photographs when one arm is leashed to a 60-pound beast. It’s a lot of work to travel by yourself with a large dog, but it’s a compromise that I happily make — I meet so many nice people when I travel with my dogs, including an adorable middle-aged biker guy from Jackson, Texas, who was missing his overweight Daschsund.

Overheard at the Grand Canyon:  Kids yelling at their parents in sheer joy.  “This is SO cool!”  “I see the river!” and best of all, a nine-ish-year-old boy as he was getting in the car, “I’ll never forget the Grand Canyon!” And I doubt his parents will ever forget that statement.

We managed to miss thundershowers for most of the day (it’s monsoon season in northern Arizona) (not kidding – that’s a real thing), but got caught as we were entering the park. Afternoon showers are normal this time of year, and they were completely bearable, and provided those lovely clouds that photographers love. And the lightning and thunder were far enough away to be impressive and dramatic, but not dangerous. But best of all, after enduring a few showers, we were rewarded with a stunning sunset.

I stayed as long as there was an orange glow, then hit the road to Flagstaff, where we hit the kind of thunderstorms you see on the nightly news. You know that iconic view of a two-lane highway through a desert-scape with a lightning bolt in the distance? (I think it’s also a movie production company logo; I should know which one, but that part of my brain is in hybernation). Well, I actually saw that! Drove through a brief downpour that would worry any other California gal, but I grew up in Missouri so didn’t even blink.

Arrived at the Travelodge on Route 66 – great location. It’s clean and nice, but was pricier than I wanted, but Flagstaff was completely booked this weekend and I didn’t make rez until last week, when I was sure of my departure date. $134/night, including the $10 dog fee. TRAVEL TIP — I almost always call the hotel directly to make reservations – they often can accommodate you even when online sites say there is no availability. When I called they quoted a rate of $135, plus $10 pet fee, but I mentioned that I saw it for $110 on Booking.com and the woman immediately said that she could match any online price.

Mixed reviews here. Unfortunately, they had no record of my request for a first-floor room, because of the dog. I was so tired that I would have been OK with the second floor, but the stairs to the second floor were those industrial metal stairs that they use at ski resorts, which have razor-sharp surfaces that would have shredded a dog’s paws. And they advertise themselves as Pet Friendly, but there is not a single patch of grass here, or a dog area. I would call them barely Dog Tolerant. But the woman at the front desk was very nice and, after telling me there were no first-floor rooms available, managed to find one for me. And the room was very nice. Not that I care, but the pool was not available (not even any water in it), and the pool area was being used to store mattresses (!). Oh, and they forget to tell me when I booked that they are directly across the street from the railroad, with trains coming through all night (fortunately, the A/C was so loud that it basically drowned out the trains). I was so tired, I didn’t really care.

 

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Day 1- Los Angeles to Kingman

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com

Hill Top Motel, 1901 E. Andy Devine Avenue, Kingman, Arizona 86401, 928-753-2198

$49/night  http://hilltopmotelaz.com

I DID IT!!!  We’re ON. THE. ROAD!

343 miles today. Temperatures as high as 115 degrees; gas as high as $4.99/gallon — both in the same place (Needles, California).

Kingman is full of Route 66 spirit and history, and the Hill Top Motel is one of the classics, here since 1954.  And they still turn on their neon signs at night. Clean and functional — nice hotel staff. It is definitely an “authentic” Route 66 experience.

Got here in time for a beautiful fireworks display in the distance behind the hotel.

MAJOR NOTE:  I bypassed many ultra-cool California Route 66 stops because I’ve already done them. But there are so many can’t-miss California spots. Check out my Route 66 – California gallery here  A few snaps from today (note to my Mom:  Make sure you scroll down below the Kingman Club photo!) —

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com

I have a history in Kingman. My mom and I first stopped here in 1981, in my first epic road trip — five weeks on the road with my mom/bestfriend from Missouri to California. I was just out of college, my first year teaching high school (a nightmare!), and a bad break-up (stupid boyfriend!). We stopped in Kingman to visit my great-aunt Beryl (my maternal grandpa’s sister) and my great-uncle Elmer.

I’ve never met a more interesting couple than Beryl & Elmer. They originally moved to Kingman because of Elmer’s health issues (asthma, I think). Elmer built their house by hand, by himself, even digging the basement with a hand shovel. Beryl worked all her life as a waitress at a local cafe, and I can’t imagine a waitress/employee who would have been more loved. She was absolutely the sweetest, kindest, most generous, happiest person I ever met. I inherited my love of red (her favorite color) from her.

And there were lots of reasons for her to not be happy, but she ignored them. They didn’t have much money, but somehow they found a way to eventually buy the house next door to them when that couple died. But, even though it was a newer, bigger house than theirs, they didn’t move into it – they just used it for storage. She took us up there once and it was full of canned goods, paper towels, soap…they stockpiled when things were on sale. These are the people I come from, I’m proud to say.

Elmer was fascinating. He loved cats and fed about a dozen strays every day, but he didn’t like people much. Beryl & Elmer took us on our very first trip to Las Vegas (yes, the Grand Canyon was RIGHT THERE, but we went to Vegas). We arrived at night and I was mesmerized (remember…1981). Beryl had a jar of nickels that she had saved from her last trip to Vegas, and that’s what she spent on the slots. Elmer didn’t gamble, but seemed to enjoy watching us. This might be when my mom caught the slot bug. (Hi, Mom!).  🙂

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OFF TO THE GRAND CANYON!!!

Merry Independence Day!

Photo by Stephanie Roberts, http://ObsessiveHobbyist.com

Found this gorgeous mural a couple of years ago on a building in Seligman, Arizona on Route 66. Headed that way today! Follow the fun.